So for some reason which remains mysterious to me I have decided to engage in a gastronomical project. In particular, I plan on sampling a variety of wines made with North American grapes. Typically, and with good reason, the wines we drink are made from European grapes -- Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, etc. However, the world is full of wacky varieties of grape. Check out
www.winelabels.org for a "taste" of the variety of wine grapes out there. At any rate, North America is home to its own varietals. Many of these are hybrids between native grapes and old world grapes.
I am old enough to remember thinking that the North American wine industry was a new thing. ...that sometime in the late 60s Californians discovered that it was possible to make tasty -- as opposed to cheap and intoxicating -- wines from grapes grown in the US. However, ignorant that I was, I did not know that, prior to the prohibition of alcohol (a disaster, by all accounts), the Midwest (in addition to parts of western New York) was the center of a huge and well-respected wine-producing industry.
Among the most popular of the 19th century North American wine-producing grapes were the Norton and the Catawba. The first was used to make red wines and the second a rose'. You may be amazed to learn that Ohio was the throbbing heartland of vineyards making wines with Catawba.
As it happens, the viticulture is reviving in the Midwest and these revived wineries are producing wines made with North American grapes. ...Pretty exciting.
So I have only tasted three wines made with North American grapes at this point.
(1) Bully Hill (NY): Love My Goat: The characteristic pitfalls of red wines made with North American grapes are that they lack body, are too sweet, and taste of wet dog (I am not kidding). This was my first such wine and it certainly confirmed my worst fears. It was described, if I recall, as "semi-dry", which really means that it was incredibly sweet. It had very little body. It was the most transparent red wine I have ever had the misfortune to see through. It is not clear what varietals went into this one. Did I detect notes of wet dog? Maybe it was more like wet goat. ugh.
(2) Mount Pleasant (MO): Norton: My interest in North American Grapes continues to plunge. This one was reasonably dry and full-bodied. It even had that spiciness I like in a red wine. But it had a grape jelly fruitiness to it that I found off-putting. Moreover, the wet dog flavor was pretty pronounced.
Strangely (courageously?) I persisted. (Could it be that I am seeking authentic American roots? Or is it, rather, that I am seeking the Other, which is paradoxically to be found in archaic America? I have no idea what imperative drives me here.)
(3) Illinois Cellars (IL): Norton (2005): Yum. This one was good. In fact, it was so much like a European wine that I felt a little cheated. I had begun to hope for at least a hint of moist animal. Luckily, after it opened up a little, there was a little -- just a hint -- of foxiness. Just what I was looking for. On my second glass, I began to notice a little grape jelly fruitiness, but just enough to make it interesting. At $6, this is a bargain. I tried the 2002, and it is similarly tasty.
Next on my list. I have a Mt. Pleasant (MO) Catawba chilling in the fridge. What will it be like? Also, I have a Stone Hill (MO) Norton awaiting sampling.